Indian Summer: Day 13 - Jaipur

Jaipur has to be the most crowded place I've yet visited (though I get the feeling I've said this a few times now!). The markets are packed, goods hanging from every available surface and crowds heaving across the walkways (and the road).

Monkeys lounge on rooftops and canopies, one eye open for that unattended apple, samosa or fetching orange shirt. Apparently there was a tv series shot here called 'monkey thieves' - the main culprit a belligerent old monkey who will rattle the green grocers door until he is fed for the day. Only then will he allow the paying customers to pass.

We found brilliant views from the top of a tower - this was the first town built from a plan, and as such the streets lead in grids, unlike the mazes encountered in most other places we have visited!

The observatory here is the oldest and best preserved of its kind - enormous instruments sourced from all over the world were brought here to be used by Indian astronomers. The lonely planet refers to it as 'a scene from a sci-fi no el', which suits the place well.

A brief stop at the palace of the winds, where we meet a snake charmer, and we were off to the golden fort high up on the hill.

Despite the rain, the golden fort was spectacular. And there were baby monkeys. Baby monkeys win.

Indian Summer: Day 12 - Jaipur

Arriving in Jaipur in the late evening, we headed to the Raj Mandir cinema - described as 'a cross between a huge pink meringue creamcake, a temple and Disneyland.

The appearance certainly didn't disappoint, they don't make cinemas like this at home! We went to watch a new release about a famous Indian Olympic runner. Completely in Hindi, with no subtitles, it was an unusual experience.

To be honest, the film made me rather uncomfortable. Not, obviously, due to the average 3 1/2 hour long feature, but the reaction of the audience to the events on screen.

Wonderfully, the audience completely participates in the film, cheering the characters on, booing the bad guys, laughing out loud as one. However it was also this such quality which made me feel uncomfortable.

In the course of the film, a small boy overheard his mother being beaten by his father then forced to sleep with him immediately after. Where I was filled with concern for the woman and pity for the boy, the audience (of mainly males) began to whoop and cheer the husband. They shouted encouragements at the screen, jeered and laughed.

When our tour guide was asked about this by some of the members of the group, he suggested people may view it differently because the pair were married.

I don't for a minute take the one experience as representative of any general feeling in the country, but it was definitely odd.

Indian Summer: Day 10-11 - Pushkar

This little place is teeny! Wandering through, I'm torn between loving the sounds of chanting emanating from the lake, with many colours and scents as worshippers from all over the world make a journey to bathe in the pools near the temples- and hating the rather aggressive lotus salesmen who try to place flowers in your hands an claim that means you've bought them now.

Personally, I feel forcing religious items on someone & demanding payment can't really be in the spirit of most religions.

Always a fan of the rooftop cafes, we find one to settle in to escape the midday sun.

The little shops here are fascinating, and as a group we head to a local restaurant which screens Bollywood films whilst you eat on the comfortable cushioned floor. As ever, the food is great (I might be getting fat) and the film was great fun. Far less songs than I'd have imagined though!!

Indian Summer: Day 8-9 - Udaipur

This place was very pretty, as the prince still lives in the palace atop the hill. There are a couple of very expensive hotels which look as if they are floating on the lake - so we took a boat ride to nosey at them.

I may have gotten slightly carried away and bought an 1830s gramophone. I love it. I don't love carrying it around with me. Gramophone + overnight train/rickshaw/bus = awkward & difficult.

We watched a local dance show (how do they balance so many pots?!), and discovered that this place seemed to have replaced its bird population with bats - rather eerie when they all soar overhead!!

The rooftop restaurants here are fantastic, but apparently my calves are mosquito nibblets & I'm on a desperate hunt for antihistamine cream...