The sight of the Taj Mahal, swathed in early morning mist, is breathtaking.
Overnight train to Varanassi here we come :)
Showing posts with label Indian Summer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Indian Summer. Show all posts
Friday, 26 July 2013
Indian Summer: Day 15 - Agra
6am and we're standing at the west gate of the Taj Mahal, queuing in our 'ladies' line for entry to the monument.
The sight of the Taj Mahal, swathed in early morning mist, is breathtaking.
Overnight train to Varanassi here we come :)
The sight of the Taj Mahal, swathed in early morning mist, is breathtaking.
Overnight train to Varanassi here we come :)
Indian Summer: Day 14 - Agra
As we arrive in Agra, the sunshine is well and truly back, along with the heat. Sheltering from midday in a local cafe, we try to figure out what the best plan is for the next day or two.
The 'Baby Taj' was up first, a perfect little area of quiet in a very (veryveryvery) busy city. Again my partner shows too much faith in the kindness of strangers as he accepts some shoe covers from the man in front of the temple (20 rupees please) - though I scorn, the skin on the soles of my gentle feet prickles over the sun baked stone.
I made some new friends in the local wildlife, are these chipmunks? Showing a woeful lack of animal knowledge here.
We then caught a rickshaw to the eastern gate of the Taj Mahal, where there's a lovely garden walk, with lovely views over the monument.
Now, sitting on a rooftop terrace, watching the sun set beside a brilliant view of the Taj Mahal, my dinner has arrived. Nomnom.
The 'Baby Taj' was up first, a perfect little area of quiet in a very (veryveryvery) busy city. Again my partner shows too much faith in the kindness of strangers as he accepts some shoe covers from the man in front of the temple (20 rupees please) - though I scorn, the skin on the soles of my gentle feet prickles over the sun baked stone.
I made some new friends in the local wildlife, are these chipmunks? Showing a woeful lack of animal knowledge here.
We then caught a rickshaw to the eastern gate of the Taj Mahal, where there's a lovely garden walk, with lovely views over the monument.
Now, sitting on a rooftop terrace, watching the sun set beside a brilliant view of the Taj Mahal, my dinner has arrived. Nomnom.
Indian Summer: Day 13 - Jaipur
Jaipur has to be the most crowded place I've yet visited (though I get the feeling I've said this a few times now!). The markets are packed, goods hanging from every available surface and crowds heaving across the walkways (and the road).
Monkeys lounge on rooftops and canopies, one eye open for that unattended apple, samosa or fetching orange shirt. Apparently there was a tv series shot here called 'monkey thieves' - the main culprit a belligerent old monkey who will rattle the green grocers door until he is fed for the day. Only then will he allow the paying customers to pass.
We found brilliant views from the top of a tower - this was the first town built from a plan, and as such the streets lead in grids, unlike the mazes encountered in most other places we have visited!
The observatory here is the oldest and best preserved of its kind - enormous instruments sourced from all over the world were brought here to be used by Indian astronomers. The lonely planet refers to it as 'a scene from a sci-fi no el', which suits the place well.
A brief stop at the palace of the winds, where we meet a snake charmer, and we were off to the golden fort high up on the hill.
Despite the rain, the golden fort was spectacular. And there were baby monkeys. Baby monkeys win.
Monkeys lounge on rooftops and canopies, one eye open for that unattended apple, samosa or fetching orange shirt. Apparently there was a tv series shot here called 'monkey thieves' - the main culprit a belligerent old monkey who will rattle the green grocers door until he is fed for the day. Only then will he allow the paying customers to pass.
We found brilliant views from the top of a tower - this was the first town built from a plan, and as such the streets lead in grids, unlike the mazes encountered in most other places we have visited!
The observatory here is the oldest and best preserved of its kind - enormous instruments sourced from all over the world were brought here to be used by Indian astronomers. The lonely planet refers to it as 'a scene from a sci-fi no el', which suits the place well.
A brief stop at the palace of the winds, where we meet a snake charmer, and we were off to the golden fort high up on the hill.
Despite the rain, the golden fort was spectacular. And there were baby monkeys. Baby monkeys win.
Thursday, 25 July 2013
Indian Summer: Day 12 - Jaipur
Arriving in Jaipur in the late evening, we headed to the Raj Mandir cinema - described as 'a cross between a huge pink meringue creamcake, a temple and Disneyland.
The appearance certainly didn't disappoint, they don't make cinemas like this at home! We went to watch a new release about a famous Indian Olympic runner. Completely in Hindi, with no subtitles, it was an unusual experience.
To be honest, the film made me rather uncomfortable. Not, obviously, due to the average 3 1/2 hour long feature, but the reaction of the audience to the events on screen.
Wonderfully, the audience completely participates in the film, cheering the characters on, booing the bad guys, laughing out loud as one. However it was also this such quality which made me feel uncomfortable.
In the course of the film, a small boy overheard his mother being beaten by his father then forced to sleep with him immediately after. Where I was filled with concern for the woman and pity for the boy, the audience (of mainly males) began to whoop and cheer the husband. They shouted encouragements at the screen, jeered and laughed.
When our tour guide was asked about this by some of the members of the group, he suggested people may view it differently because the pair were married.
I don't for a minute take the one experience as representative of any general feeling in the country, but it was definitely odd.
The appearance certainly didn't disappoint, they don't make cinemas like this at home! We went to watch a new release about a famous Indian Olympic runner. Completely in Hindi, with no subtitles, it was an unusual experience.
To be honest, the film made me rather uncomfortable. Not, obviously, due to the average 3 1/2 hour long feature, but the reaction of the audience to the events on screen.
Wonderfully, the audience completely participates in the film, cheering the characters on, booing the bad guys, laughing out loud as one. However it was also this such quality which made me feel uncomfortable.
In the course of the film, a small boy overheard his mother being beaten by his father then forced to sleep with him immediately after. Where I was filled with concern for the woman and pity for the boy, the audience (of mainly males) began to whoop and cheer the husband. They shouted encouragements at the screen, jeered and laughed.
When our tour guide was asked about this by some of the members of the group, he suggested people may view it differently because the pair were married.
I don't for a minute take the one experience as representative of any general feeling in the country, but it was definitely odd.
Indian Summer: Day 10-11 - Pushkar
This little place is teeny! Wandering through, I'm torn between loving the sounds of chanting emanating from the lake, with many colours and scents as worshippers from all over the world make a journey to bathe in the pools near the temples- and hating the rather aggressive lotus salesmen who try to place flowers in your hands an claim that means you've bought them now.
Personally, I feel forcing religious items on someone & demanding payment can't really be in the spirit of most religions.
Always a fan of the rooftop cafes, we find one to settle in to escape the midday sun.
The little shops here are fascinating, and as a group we head to a local restaurant which screens Bollywood films whilst you eat on the comfortable cushioned floor. As ever, the food is great (I might be getting fat) and the film was great fun. Far less songs than I'd have imagined though!!
Personally, I feel forcing religious items on someone & demanding payment can't really be in the spirit of most religions.
Always a fan of the rooftop cafes, we find one to settle in to escape the midday sun.
The little shops here are fascinating, and as a group we head to a local restaurant which screens Bollywood films whilst you eat on the comfortable cushioned floor. As ever, the food is great (I might be getting fat) and the film was great fun. Far less songs than I'd have imagined though!!
Indian Summer: Day 8-9 - Udaipur
This place was very pretty, as the prince still lives in the palace atop the hill. There are a couple of very expensive hotels which look as if they are floating on the lake - so we took a boat ride to nosey at them.
I may have gotten slightly carried away and bought an 1830s gramophone. I love it. I don't love carrying it around with me. Gramophone + overnight train/rickshaw/bus = awkward & difficult.
We watched a local dance show (how do they balance so many pots?!), and discovered that this place seemed to have replaced its bird population with bats - rather eerie when they all soar overhead!!
The rooftop restaurants here are fantastic, but apparently my calves are mosquito nibblets & I'm on a desperate hunt for antihistamine cream...
I may have gotten slightly carried away and bought an 1830s gramophone. I love it. I don't love carrying it around with me. Gramophone + overnight train/rickshaw/bus = awkward & difficult.
We watched a local dance show (how do they balance so many pots?!), and discovered that this place seemed to have replaced its bird population with bats - rather eerie when they all soar overhead!!
The rooftop restaurants here are fantastic, but apparently my calves are mosquito nibblets & I'm on a desperate hunt for antihistamine cream...
Sunday, 14 July 2013
Indian Summer: Day 7 - Jodhpur
Embarking on a bus at 4.30am didn't appeal at first, but what a great way to nap and cool down whilst giving yourself more time to explore during the day!
After a quick swim in the pool (love swimming) we set off to see the fort at the centre of the town. From here you could see the many blue buildings of the 'blue city'. These were originally painted blue to show the social status of the inhabitants, also offering the benefits of insect repelling and cooling. Now, however, anyone can paint their house blue, and it makes for an impressive sight.
Walking into the blue city itself is daunting. The streets are the busiest we've yet visited, with rather aggressive rickshaw drivers!!
Local Lassis are incredible. Lemon flavour perhaps? Absolutely brilliant - if you've never tried a lassi before, you really should head to your local Indian cafe and drink one :p
After a quick swim in the pool (love swimming) we set off to see the fort at the centre of the town. From here you could see the many blue buildings of the 'blue city'. These were originally painted blue to show the social status of the inhabitants, also offering the benefits of insect repelling and cooling. Now, however, anyone can paint their house blue, and it makes for an impressive sight.
Walking into the blue city itself is daunting. The streets are the busiest we've yet visited, with rather aggressive rickshaw drivers!!
Local Lassis are incredible. Lemon flavour perhaps? Absolutely brilliant - if you've never tried a lassi before, you really should head to your local Indian cafe and drink one :p
Indian Summer: Day 5 - jaisalmer
The train today was a new experience. Hot, crowded, covered in sand as the scarce but keenly awaited gusts of wind bring what seems like half of the desert with it. We were lucky, though, managing to grab a bay for our group for most of the journey.
On arriving in Jaisalmer, we headed for the hotel to freshen up. What a beautiful hotel! Made from the same rich golden sandstone as the fort nearby, with a great pool outside.
After dumping our bags, we rode a rickshaw to the nearby cultural heritage museum. A very homely little museum, the elderly man who had collected all the items and articles within gave us our own private tour (complete with a grandad-style rant about today's youth culture). A truly lovely man, this filled our afternoon before meeting back up with the group. Together we visited a grand old temple by the side of a lake - water is very important in these desert areas, so can often be found surrounded by shrines or temples.
Dinner was slightly disappointing! I knew already that I prefer the local restaurants to the tourist one, but this made me more determined than ever to branch off & eat dinner else where. At the saffron restaurant the portions were small, the prices large, and the spices nothing special. It was very pretty though, and just in time for hiding away from the thunderstorm...
On arriving in Jaisalmer, we headed for the hotel to freshen up. What a beautiful hotel! Made from the same rich golden sandstone as the fort nearby, with a great pool outside.
After dumping our bags, we rode a rickshaw to the nearby cultural heritage museum. A very homely little museum, the elderly man who had collected all the items and articles within gave us our own private tour (complete with a grandad-style rant about today's youth culture). A truly lovely man, this filled our afternoon before meeting back up with the group. Together we visited a grand old temple by the side of a lake - water is very important in these desert areas, so can often be found surrounded by shrines or temples.
Dinner was slightly disappointing! I knew already that I prefer the local restaurants to the tourist one, but this made me more determined than ever to branch off & eat dinner else where. At the saffron restaurant the portions were small, the prices large, and the spices nothing special. It was very pretty though, and just in time for hiding away from the thunderstorm...
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